Stampe undercarriage suspension blocks are now produced by Guy Solevels via the Stampe Club. A set comprises of p.n. 43241 (9 needed per leg), and inner leg sleeve separators, p.n. 43242 (2 needed per leg). I have these sleeves p.n. 43242 in stock, seen on the left in the photo below.
Also, there is a mold for Renault engine mounts, p.n. 7.215.162. (4 required).
Looking at the Stampe illustrated parts manual, page 27, it will be seen that item 11, which is the large rubber suspension block pictured here on the right, has two part numbers, 43241 (8 required “avec tenon”) and 43241/1 (1 required “sans tenon”), the single block without nipples sits at the top of the stack. Both blocks are dimensionally the same with the exception of the “tenon”, and so for ease of production and to save me the cost of another mold at £1200 a pop, just cut the nipples off a 43241 and call it a 43241/1.
Incidentally, it was common practice in a well known organisation to bung an extra rubber block and aluminium separator up a leg when the rubbers got tired. If you are inclined this way, extra ally separators, p.n. 43084 are available from me.
The inner leg seperators (manchon de butee) p.n. 43242 are in stock and available from me. These can be very awkward to fit on to the leg without splitting. Use fairy liquid as a lubricant, and wash off the excess.
Turning now to the Renault engine mount block, p.n. 7.215.162. Don’t throw away the old blocks, because they are needed for re manufacture, and must be prepared by very carefully removing the old rubber. The blocks look like an aluminium doughnut (alooooominum to our US friends), with the rubber in the middle. Between the rubber and the alloy doughnut is a brass lining to which the rubber adheres, as it will not effectively stick to aluminium alloy. Removing the old rubber without damaging the brass lining is where the skill lies. To do this, shove the block in the freezer, and when the rubber is very hard, turn nearly all of it out on the lathe, being careful not to cut too near the brass lining. Then immerse the block in cellulose thinners for a day or two, and the remaining rubber should reluctantly strip away. Finish off by rubbing the brass lining with nothing more abrasive than a piece of Scotch Brite. The doughnut is now ready for the rubber company to treat the brass with an acid, if it is not immaculately clean, the rubber won’t properly adhere. If you prefer, I can do this work for you.
Warning. Unlike the undercarriage rubbers mold, I doubt very much that this Renault engine mount mold was made to drawing. It would appear that a still serviceable block was used as a pattern, there being no drawing available. The end product is a block with too much rubber at either side, where the pattern block has been squashed in service. Look at the picture in the Renault IPC, which shows that the rubber sides are flat. The mounts are difficult to mount on the engine feet, use Fairy Liquid to lubricate whilst fitting when the rubber is warm (not hot), and make sure that the washer and nut are fully home against the extra rubber. You’ll have fun with that.